Essential information for visitors to Istanbul, including the best sights, hotels and restaurants.

Getting there

British Airways (0844 493 0787; www.britishairways.com) and Turkish Airlines (0844 800 6666; www.turkishairlines.com) fly to Istanbul’s main Atatürk Airport, while easyJet (www.easyjet.co.uk) flies to Sabiha Gökçen airport on the Asian side (about 20 miles from the ferry port that takes you to the European side). Taxis from Atatürk into Sultanahmet cost about 30 Turkish lira (about £13); the Metro takes about 50 minutes and costs 3 lira (www.iett.gov.tr). From Sabiha Gökçen, the Havas Airport Bus (www.havas.net/en/shuttle-parking) goes to Taksim Square, while a taxi costs about 75 lira. Many hotels operate an airport pickup service.

The inside track

The Spice Market is a must, but walk around the surrounding streets to discover where the Turks do their shopping. You’ll often find better prices and quality, and get to experience a haggle without the hassle.

On Wednesdays, head to the traditional area around the Fatih Mosque, to what is reputedly the biggest open-air market in Europe. You’ll see virtually no foreign visitors – it’s a fascinating experience.

Have a flutter at Veliefendi Hippodrome (0090 212 444 0855; www.veliefendi.com) in Bakirköy. Meets are every Wednesday and Sunday (entry is 2 lira for men, 1 lira for women); the atmosphere is frantic but family orientated and hugely enjoyable.

Feyhaman Duran, Turkey’s first Impressionist painter, died in 1970, but his house has been preserved intact. Located on the edge of Istanbul University gardens in Beyazit, it’s intensely evocative of his painting style (440 0000, ext 11425).

The best hotels

The Constantine Hotel £
Decorated in typical modern Turkish style; on the edge of Gülhane park, and a pleasant 10-minute walk from all the Sultanahmet sites (513 0808; www.theconstantinehotel.com; from €40/£34).

Hotel Empress Zoe ££
Within strolling distance of Hagia Sophia; a verdant garden makes it an island of calm; the home-cooked Turkish breakfasts are well worth getting up for (518 2504; www.emzoe.com; single rooms from €80/£65).

A’jia £££
On the Asian side, a five-star boutique hotel in an Ottoman waterfront pavilion; rooms are modern, chic and luxurious; transport issues are solved by the hotel’s private river taxi (216 413 9300; www.ajiahotel.com; from €260/£215).

The best restaurants

Buhara £
Kebab restaurant busy with locals at lunchtimes; basic décor but the quality and variety of the grilled meats and home-made breads are outstanding (Nuruosmaniye Caddesi 7A; 527 5133).

Karaköy Lokantasi ££
Traditional Turkish dishes served in chic, blue-tiled surroundings, a few steps from the Golden Horn. A simple lunchtime menu converts into a stunning array of mezze in the evening (Kemankes Caddesi 37; 292 4455).

Sunset Grill £££
With its menu of modern Turkish and Japanese cuisine, Sunset Grill combines stunning food with equally stunning views (Adnan Saygun Caddesi; 287 0357)
turkey travel